
Enchanting natural beauty and heritage of Sundarbans
S.M. Saiful Islam Kabir, Sundarbans
Nestled in the southwestern region of Bangladesh, the Sundarbans is a magnificent display of nature’s grandeur. It stands as a lush, vibrant sanctuary, rich in scenic beauty, interwoven rivers and canals, diverse wildlife, and breathtaking biodiversity. Just as rivers flow relentlessly into the sea, people from all over the world overcome their fears of the wild to witness the unparalleled charm of the Sundarbans. It is the largest habitat for wildlife in Bangladesh and the world's largest tidal halophytic mangrove forest.
The forest’s stunning array of flora and unique wildlife has established it as a rare and exceptional natural wonder. It also serves as an important hub for economic activities. Timber, honey, beeswax, and fish are abundantly harvested from the forest. The Sundarbans spans across parts of Satkhira, Khulna, and Bagerhat districts, with around 200 small and large islands scattered among nearly 400 interconnected rivers, canals, and creeks.
About 200 years ago, the Sundarbans covered nearly 16,700 square kilometers. Now, it has shrunk to one-third of its original size. It is known as the world's largest continuous tidal mangrove forest and a vital fishery. The Sundarbans Division was established in 1874–75, marking the beginning of organized forest management. On February 15, 1875, the forest areas in today’s Khulna and Bagerhat districts were declared reserved forests under Section 2 of the 1865 Forest Act. Later, on August 1, 1876, the forest area in Satkhira was also declared reserved.
On January 23, 1879, under Section 34 of the 1878 Forest Act, the boundaries of the reserved forests in Khulna, Bagerhat, and Satkhira were redefined and published. The final boundary notification came on February 8, 1915. Until 1993, the Plantation Circle managed the coastal forest areas, including the Sundarbans. After restructuring in 1993, the newly established Khulna Circle took over the management of the Sundarbans. The Sundarbans Division was split into the Sundarbans West and East Forest Divisions in 2001, headquartered in Khulna and Bagerhat respectively.
Covering around 10,000 square kilometers, the Sundarbans lies across Khulna, Bagerhat, and Satkhira districts in Bangladesh and the South 24 Parganas district in India’s West Bengal. Following the partition of British India, two-thirds of the forest fell within Bangladesh. Bangladesh hosts 6,017 square kilometers of the forest—69% land and 31% water. Under the Sundarbans West Forest Division, the area spans 3,573.28 square kilometers, of which 2,072.24 square kilometers fall in Khulna district, with the rest in Satkhira.
The forest's distinctive features include upstream freshwater flow, saline marine tides, and muddy islands. There are multiple theories about the origin of the name "Sundarbans." Some believe it means "beautiful forest" while others think it evolved from "Samudra Ban" (sea forest). Another theory links the name to the dominant tree species, Sundari (Heritiera fomes).
The tidal nature of the forest results in high salinity and waterlogging, shaping its unique biodiversity. Most plants here are evergreen and share similar physiological adaptations. Many trees have aerial roots to absorb oxygen directly from the air. Major tree species include Sundari, Gewa, Passur, Dhundul, Goran, Bain, Kakra, and Keora. In 1903, botanist David Prain documented 334 plant species in the Sundarbans and its surrounding areas. The forest also contains 165 species of algae and 13 species of orchids. Of the 50+ known true mangrove species globally, 35 are found here.
The Sundarbans hosts exceptional faunal diversity and is the most critical habitat for the Royal Bengal Tiger. About 289 terrestrial animal species inhabit the forest, including 42 mammal species, 35 reptile species, 8 amphibian species, and 219 aquatic species. Besides the tiger, notable mammals include spotted deer, barking deer, rhesus monkeys, jungle cats, porcupines, fishing cats, and wild boars. Among the 35 reptile species, the estuarine crocodile is the largest and has a population of around 200. Other reptiles include cobras, pythons, kraits, and several species of sea snakes.
Among invertebrates, mollusks and crustaceans are vital economic resources. There are approximately 24 species of shrimp, 14 crab species, and several species of snails and oysters. Of the 320 bird species residing in the Sundarbans, most are native while about 50 are migratory, especially ducks. Egrets, herons, storks, sandpipers, and lapwings frequent the muddy shores, while seagulls, terns, and sea pigeons are seen along the coast. Birds of prey such as kites, eagles, and vultures, and woodland birds like kingfishers, woodpeckers, owls, bulbuls, starlings, finches, weavers, doves, and the national bird doel (Oriental Magpie-Robin) are commonly observed.
The forest also teems with insect life, with honeybees being economically significant. Local honey collectors, known as "mouals," enter the forest with permits to harvest honey. The latest survey reports 114 tigers, 100,000–150,000 spotted deer, 20,000 monkeys, and 20,000–25,000 wild boars in the Sundarbans.
The Sundarbans is also a major tourist destination. Attractions like Kotka, Hiron Point (also known as Nilkamal), Dublar Char, and Tiger Point (Kachikhali) draw large numbers of visitors each year. Kotka is particularly popular for its natural beauty and wildlife. It features a forest rest house and a watchtower. Hiron Point also offers tourist accommodations and observation facilities. Dublar Char is a small island known for its beautiful beach and seasonal fishing activity, which attracts hundreds of fishermen from October to mid-February. Mouals typically search for honey in the forest between April and May.
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