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Origin, emevolution,  endangerment of  Sundarbans

Origin, emevolution, endangerment of Sundarbans


S.M. Saiful Islam Kabir,  Sundarbans

The Sundarbans, the world's largest mangrove forest and a UNESCO World Heritage site, is famously known as the "Fishery Treasury" of the southwest region of Bengal.

 It is located at the southern edge of Bengal, where numerous branches of the Ganges descend into the sea, forming a saline, alluvial, and forested land teeming with wild fauna. This region, covered with countless trees and shrubs, has come to be known as the Sundarbans. It stretches from the estuary of the Bhagirathi in the west to the Meghna estuary in the east. Some even include the forested southern regions of Noakhali, Chattogram, and islands like Hatia and Sandwip as part of the Sundarbans. Geographically, the area between the Ganges and Meghna rivers is the core of the Sundarbans. Presently, it spans the districts of 24 Parganas, Khulna, and Bakerganj, particularly in their southern parts outside the realm of permanent settlement rights.

With the multi-faceted progress of science and technology, humanity has gained immense power—allowing unchecked exploitation of nature. We have created a civilization that exerts intense pressure on the natural world, disrupting ecological balance. The human drive to dominate nature has overturned millions of years of natural harmony, affecting every element of the ecosystem—forests, plants, insects, wetlands, aquatic species—through careless and unrestrained actions. This has triggered a massive environmental crisis, resulting in ongoing destruction of biodiversity. Already, the consequences of this crisis are becoming evident to humanity.

So, what is the solution? Some argue that we are beyond saving, while others believe that environmental damage can be controlled by reducing pollution levels. But this problem cannot be solved with purely material or partial efforts. A philosophical perspective is required—one that recognizes the need to reconstruct the lifestyle and social organization of human society in a way that aligns harmoniously with nature and all living beings. Such a holistic and philosophical approach could dismantle systems of exploitation and help build a sustainable society attuned to nature.

In early civilization, human development was intimately connected to and guided by nature. Every early economic and social activity was shaped by nature. But today, technological advancement has led to an attempt not only to control nature but to transform it entirely—crossing limits and disrupting the relationship between humanity and the environment. This exploitation is driven by a small section of powerful people seeking profit and domination, even in the face of global protests, expert warnings, and mass resistance.

This unchecked destruction doesn’t only affect humans—it endangers all living beings. Nature is showing us that the human race is but a part of its grand system. Unending interference is therefore not desirable.

The environmental destruction in the Sundarbans—driven by short-sighted policies of exploitative rulers and systems—is a glaring example. The damage to this invaluable ecological shield raises critical concerns about our survival.

The Name and Meaning of Sundarbans : 

The origin of the name "Sundarbans" is contested. The most popular belief is that the forest is named after the Sundari tree, known for its reddish wood. Others believe the name came from “Samudra-ban” (sea forest), which evolved into "Sundarban." British historian Mr. Beveridge suggested it originated from the Sugandha River in the Bakerganj district, citing ancient Hindu mythology connected to the area. Another theory links the name to "Chandradwipban," a forest of the ancient Chandradwip kingdom. Others trace it to a tribe named "Chandravand."

Despite varied opinions, the most accepted theory is the Sundari tree’s dominance in the region. These trees grow in abundance, are tall, strong, and ideal for building boats and homes, making them the “king” of the forest.

The Sundarbans is classified as a mangrove forest—the largest of its kind in the world. Four tidal movements occur daily, where saline water floods in and retreats, creating a unique aquatic-terrestrial ecosystem. This constant interplay allows a wide range of rare trees and animals to thrive, giving the forest its unmatched biodiversity.

Historically, the Sundarbans was part of the ancient "Barobhati Bangla" region, a delta formed by Himalayan rivers flowing south to the Bay of Bengal. The fertile silt deposited over centuries led to the forest’s creation. Some evidence, like submerged Sundari trunks found during pond excavation in Khulna and Sealdah (Kolkata), suggests the forest once stretched far northward.

In 1868, at a session of the Asiatic Society in Kolkata, a presentation referenced Portuguese-era maps showing five cities on the Sundarbans coast—Pacakuli, Quipitavaz, Noldi, Dapara, and Tipria—implying a vibrant trade network in the region.

The scenic beauty of these port towns, surrounded by deltas and forest, made them attractive trade centers. Even Chanda Saudagar's legendary merchant ships are believed to have passed through this region.

Role of Rivers in the Growth of the Sundarbans : 

Almost all rivers of greater Khulna eventually flow into the Sundarbans, creating an intricate network vital to its ecology. These rivers have been compared to the arteries and veins of a human body. Settlement officer L.R. Fawcus noted that although these rivers have become shallower, they still bring strong currents into the forest during the monsoon.

As historian Dr. Niharranjan Ray observed, the rivers of Bengal are both a blessing and a curse. They have shaped civilizations, changed courses, created and destroyed settlements, and contributed immensely to the development of agriculture, trade, and culture.

In the same way, the Sundarbans' formation, sustainability, and evolution owe much to these rivers. Vast wetlands such as Bill Dakatia, Bill Pangalia, Bill Publa, and others store freshwater during the monsoon, which mixes with saline water to create the unique chemistry that supports the region’s rich flora and fauna.

Over 450 rivers and canals run through the Sundarbans, including: Taleshwar, Baleshwar, Shibsa, Panaguchi, Kaliganga, Boroshia, Murikhali, Chitra, Rupsha, Bhadra, Harin Ghata, Kumar, Kapotakkho, Kholpetua, Ghashiyakhali, Poshur, Arpangashia, Bhanga, Kunga, Malancha, Satkhira, Sutor Khali, Raymangal, Marjati, Harindanga, Mahaganga, Haripur, Sonai, Budhati Gang, Taki, Badurgacha, Kuchiyakhali, Koyra, Kalindi, Payra, Kocha, Maiar Gang, Kazibacha, Kakshiali, Narayankhali, Kadamtali, Bangra, Sheela, Kolagachhia, Bashtoli, Shalangkhi, Shakbaria, Alki, Manikdia, Chandeshwar, Pankushi, Manjal, Thandai, Pankhali, Sholmarai, Haskura, Naimkhali, Shatal, Bhairab and Bhola. 

Details of the rivers surrounding Sundarbans are : 

 Baleshwar River :  The widest river in the Sundarbans, flowing through Bagerhat’s eastern edge. Stretching 146 km, it merges with Harin Ghata before entering the Bay of Bengal. Known for abundant fish, especially hilsa during the monsoon, it supports the livelihoods of thousands.

 Shibsa River :  Aferocious and vital river in Khulna district, historically important for ports like Shekhertake and Kalibari. Originating from the Kapotakkho River, it flows south, absorbing several streams and creating fierce currents. Its convergence with Bhadra marks the beginning of the Sundarbans.

Poshur River :  Another powerful southward river. It gathers waters from several tributaries including Kazibacha and Sholmari, eventually merging at Bajua with the Majjat area, then flows into the sea near Dublar Char. Known as Mayajatya, this estuary was once 13 km wide. Nearby lie the famed Fisherman’s Island and Tiger Point.

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